How to Survive GB Road: A Guide for Tourists

Tourists are often anxious about the idea of venturing out into Delhi. Indeed, it’s not an experience for the faint-hearted. You should be aware that GB Road or Garstin Bastion Road is considered a pretty dangerous area, and you should take care not to get too close to any of the women unless you have specific knowledge of their intentions. There have been reports of tourists being attacked and even killed in the area. But many eager-eyed travelers are ready to take the plunge, test the odds and visit the area for themselves.

Source: Wikipedia

The first thing to remember is that GB Road will probably not be your favorite place. It’s pretty dirty and polluted, and there’s a very high crime rate compared with other areas of Delhi. It smells terrible, is extremely noisy, and is very crowded all through the night. It’s not where you want to hang around for a long time, nor is it the sort of place where you want to take photos of people.

Why? Because prostitution is illegal in India, and GB Road is the central hub of that illicit industry. It’s also a dangerous place to visit. There are numerous reports of theft, molestation, and even murder here. However, we should also remember that there have been some exceptions in recent years.

If you visit GB Road, please remember that you are in a very different culture and country, and you must behave in the civilized manner we expect of our tourists when they travel abroad to other cultures. It will help if you respect local culture and local people. Deference to religious sensibilities is the hallmark of good behavior overseas.

GB Road is a great place for shopping with lots of cheap things to buy if you can stomach the crowded and dirty atmosphere. It is also a performer’s street, and many women on the street attract customers by singing, dancing, playing musical instruments, and doing other activities. The anteroom of most of the brothels is an excellent place to learn about local culture and history.

It would help if you were not afraid to come into contact with prostitutes when you are in a country where prostitution is legal. While it would be better if you knew what to expect, there is no reason for you not to buy anything from them. But it’s essential to ensure that everything you buy is for yourself and made by genuine craftsmen.

If you have little experience in India, the first thing to learn is that the most common currency used in Delhi and other cities is rupees (Rs) or Indian rupees (INR). They are now accepted everywhere in India. Rs1,000 = 1 US $. You will find many places where you can change money and some that will accept only INR. The prices vary depending on what you buy.

I suggest you use the Lodhi Garden Market and Khan Market to familiarise yourself with an Indian environment before venturing to GB Road. Neither are as dirty, crowded, or have the same crime rate as GB Road. Be prepared for a lot of shouting and screaming from street vendors. It’s normal for them to shout about their wares and for customers to bargain for a better price.

What to wear?

GB Road is a very crowded area, and you will get dirty quickly, so you must be prepared for that. So bring a change of clothes with you. One pair of comfortable shoes is also a good idea. If you’re unsure what to wear, wear regular clothes. Avoid shorts or skimpy clothing, as these may attract unwanted attention. You may also want to bring a scarf or shawl with you, mainly if you are female, as it will make it easier for you to cover your head and upper body parts.

How much money to bring?

The amount of money you take should be based on the kind of things you want to buy and how much time you spend in the area. A rough guide is about Rs300-600 for a one-night stay in the area. But you should never walk around GB Road without any money, even if the thought of the whole experience scares you. Many shops here will offer you stolen goods in return for your money, so you should always carry a purse when you go out and, if possible, pay in cash.

You can also take some money with you for your time. Many bars and restaurants on the street offer food and drinks for a meager price because they have taken anything from Rs2 to Rs100 as deposits from previous customers.

Don’t drink too much alcohol, as this can make you more of an easy target for thieves. Don’t put too many things in your pockets, especially if you are female or may attract attention. If you must carry a lot of money, keep it home and hide it as appropriately as possible.

What should I do if someone stops me?

Avoid wearing flashy clothes and jewelry in GB Road areas. You may want to take a photo of yourself in the area, but you should never flash money or jewelry at the women here.

I suggest that tourists dress unobtrusively and not attract attention. You will also be treated more respectfully if you do not argue with the people who stop you in the street and ask for money. You can beat a hasty retreat if you sense that your life is in danger, which includes being followed on the road by someone interested in your money.

What is the best time to visit GB Road?

The best time to visit GB Road is from early evening to late night. The evening hours are when the prostitutes (or “women of independent means,” as they would like to be called) are likely to be out in force. If you decide not to go in the evenings and prefer the daytime, you will miss everything that makes this place exciting and unique.

GB Road gets very crowded on Friday and Saturdays, so you should avoid them. It is also best to avoid the months of June and July as these can be very hot. If you plan to visit in August and September or at Christmas, take a sweater with you. Rain is possible at any time during the year.

What do I tell my friends?

You should not feel compelled to tell your friends about every place you visit in India; it’s simply not worth the effort. But if you decide to come to GB Road, I suggest you take them with you. It will make the experience more fun and exciting if they can see what it is like. Better still, one of them should take a video or photo of you in the area.

Where can I stay?

You can quickly get rooms in local hotels and guesthouses within 10-15 minutes from GB Road. Just use the net to find out what’s available. If you book early enough, there are usually discounts available.

Finding a hotel close to GB Road can be difficult. The most convenient accommodation options for visitors are:

The Lodhi Hotel (2475 New Delhi House, Lodhi Road), which is also right near Khan Market and the Old Railway Station; and

The Srinagar Hotel (Jahangir Puri, Lodhi Rd.) is located in central Delhi opposite Ambedkar Stadium.

Both hotels are more expensive, but they provide an excellent location to visit the area. The room rates at the Lodhi Hotel vary from Rs900 to Rs1500 depending on the season and duration of stay, which is equivalent to being a guest in a very posh house. The Srinagar Hotel is much cheaper, with prices beginning from Rs500 for a double room for single occupancy.

If you want to save money, I suggest you don’t stay in the area and instead find a hotel elsewhere. But then again, if you are going to spend most of your time in the area because of its unique atmosphere, then it makes sense for you to stay here.

If you are afraid of being robbed or attacked by a sex worker, staying on the upper levels of modern hotels and public buildings with more than one exit is best. These usually have video surveillance and security guards to stop such petty crimes. There are also a few hotels on the GB Road premises, which may be safe only if you are barricaded in your room.

What is the best way to get there?

The number of buses that go into GB Road is increasing over time, but these tend to be private buses or tourist buses catering to foreigners. This is because the road is not part of any national highway network and has never been a strategic route for commercial transport.

I suggest that you use the Delhi Metro to get to GB Road. The Delhi Metro system is very convenient and avoids traffic jams, which makes it faster than a bus. The price of metro tickets can be as low as Rs30 depending on when you take access (less in November). It also offers discounts for group travel, which might make it worthwhile if you have three or more people traveling with you. You can save about Rs100 if you buy a two-day pass rather than a single ticket.

The metro route from Tughlakabad to RK Ashram Marg is not direct, and you might have to change it at some point. However, it’s a lot faster than taking a bus.

I suggest that you arrive at the metro station early in the morning to avoid the crowds of people waiting for their turn to travel on this route. You can also avoid being harassed by the “women of independent means.”

Any last suggestions?

I suggest that you bring some snacks and bottled water with you. There are no restaurants on the GB Road premises, so taking your food would be a good idea. Also, be prepared to negotiate prices when buying anything in this area.

As to what you should take with you, I suggest you bring any personal items (such as a toothbrush or hand sanitizer). Your clothing should be light and lose fitting so that you can run if you have to. You should also keep a good amount of cash to pay the women quickly if necessary.

In the long run, having these items is better than visiting India without them.

If you are going to make a trip to GB Road, then it’s best to be prepared. The violent incidents on GB Road (and elsewhere) are usually not random or simply the act of a few bad apples. These are situations in which there is a high possibility that you might be physically harmed. The same goes for being robbed.

You need to be aware of this and accept that life here is dangerous for everyone.

The choice is yours…